A Peak Experience.

October 2017 - a very doable couple of nights out - could be an ideal first trip for those less used to going it alone.

 A kit list might be a stretch too far - pack lightweight yes - 

But do take at least one form form of entertainment, please, this is supposed to be fun Ok ?? 

As always, setting off hopefully - after a brief northern family visit. 

- Waving adieu to a fine lady atop a fine hoss - Can we make out the inscription ??

Nope never mind - as a learned friend opined about statues, and how much they teach us about real history - When that statue tossing debate was in full swing.

"What do we truly learn about history from statues ??

 Mainly that people of any significance were usually green, twice the usual size, and rode very angry looking horses"

From Liverpool, to change in Manchester - then not quite all the way to Sheffield  -

Along the way encountering a cygnet (!) on the line - She gave us a 20 minute delay having plonked herself down for a rest, mid-track.

And, as we informed some of our Portuguese carriage mates - we couldn't just run over one of the queens own livestock.. 

Disembarking, and watching from the footbridge, the train round away up the line, out of sight, is probably one of my favourite travel experiences..

Then you will turn fairly well prepared, to sally off up the hill northwards from Hope . 

Up and up and along, looking east up Edale

Up a little more  ..

And then peeping over the top towards Ladybower reservoir - looking a tad low here  - But to be expected after the long dry summer. 

Gaining Whin Hill for a very late lunch of bread and cheese - I'd not alighted the train, til gone 1pm on account of 'swans on the line'

Yes I know - rubber booties - maybe not your (or mine) usual backpacking footwear - but actually very appropriate for potentially muddy autumnal walks in the north.

Having done a few longish walks in them - Hadrians Wall Path - for instance - in what turned out to be a hottish October spell - i knew i was likely to have happy feet though.

Plus oh the glamour !! - cool  😎 warm , and hot ,all at the same time in my favourite flowery Darn Tough long merino socks - great for filling the gap stylishly on cooler evenings if you favour 3/4 length trews now and then..

I like them for cycle touring too.

Then neatly sidestepping the hordes - there were at least five other people up there - heading off north east towards Kinder Scout, where i had mused upon pitching, that night ..

This is an old section of Roman Road - it does feel like its going somewhere.

I could have worked up something about this lot being ^^ kinder scouts i sp'ose.

But in truth a bunch of school kids out with their geography teacher.

They were even indulgent enough to let me join in with their fiendishly clever word game -

- You know the sort that makes you feel fiendishly clever - once you've got it - but like the dullest of dullards whilst still floundering to grasp the trick .. 

This reminded me that originally I'd planned a bike trip here, this time, but too many other engagements bookending the trip, and multiple train changes were going to make that tricky.

Maybe another time - it does look like good biking country. 

The amount of work that went into these stone walls - astonishing - but sadly so uneconomic to maintain without grant assistance.

On the way here i had an interesting  encounter with a young couple in a very shiny blue BMW .

They were wedged fast in the track where they'd discovered the inadvisability of going "off road" in such a low slung car.

They had got themselves stuck atop a boulder in the sheep track and were going nowhere - a good test of a young relationship i thought.

Having experienced similar difficulties myself, in the past, but in different circs i gave them a few tips on extrication - 

 (for car, not from not each other - that might have come later) 

Jack up the offending axle as high as possible - construct from nearby rocks an exit ramp under the tyre,  release the jack - gently reverse with great care ...

Should i have stayed to supervise their escape ?/

 I decided not -  After all its all good character building stuff for the youth.

I do still wonder what happened - maybe a local farmer had to rescue them ??  Oh the shame ..

For reasons that escape me now - short daylight hours in October most likely - i decided not to scamper up Kinder via Jaggers clough - but instead wandered up the track to Alport Castles a well named craggy escarpment. 

Where i assumed, there would be regally tucked away spot for airing out the shelter for the night.

While i meditated upon the dark.

On occasion i do get asked "Don't you get scared out there, walking ,and camping all by yourself?"

And the honest answer in truth , is "Yes, sometimes i do"

 I have a vivid imagination - and even though i try not to fill it with gruesome images, thoughts, or sensationalist tales, hundreds of years of conditioning are not overcome in one short lifetime. .

I take most but not all of the 'sensible' precautions that our sex is schooled in from a young age.

Make sure no one knows of your precise plans - apart from a few in the inner circle, take a few glances behind to check you've not been spotted, and adopt a confident purposeful walk like you're going somewhere, someones expecting you even ??

It does really annoy me (understatement) that we are the ones having to think about this stuff , when we are not the ones causing anyone else any grief.

And that means we're are just a little less visible..

Therefore slightly less in a position to give confidence to our wavering sisters, in these matters.

Of course, all of us regardless of gender, need to take care of the basics, food, water, shelter appropriate clothing, navigational ability, tech usage etc  .

We all have to have those things if we are to be reasonably safe.

But we are gifted that extra burden - the fear of  'strange men' and their potential to do us harm.

Not ghosts or ghouls or supernatural beasties.

More potentially random aggressors - a bit like the faint but still real chance of coming across a rogue bear in their natural habitat - except these are supposedly humans - capable of humanity.

Yes we know, rationally the risk from these unknowns is very low - statistically we're more likely to be harmed by someone known to us.

But we've all been schooled in Big Bad Wolves, and suchlike, all the stories of the vulnerable ladies , needing to be rescued - It all serves to advise us against 'going out alone' - 

And this collective fear is not a rational beast either.

- Which is pretty enraging when you think about it - 

Because if those very few bad guys are the problem - then here's an idea - all the chaps can stay home - yes all of em - cos you can't tell by just looking who's who, who is ok, who isn't can you ??

Unless those chaps are accompanied by a proven to be trustworthy chaperone..

Seems an unreasonable impingement on the liberties of all men ??

It does rather, doesn't it  - so what ?

What do we do instead ??

We curtail the liberties of all women ?? To keep them 'safe' at home ..

Well no, i'm not having that - and i don't think we should stay allegedly 'safe' at home because of it -

 If we do then the bad guys have won .. Is that Ok ??

- Time for the 'good guys' to sort* out the bad guys, and their attitudes  - i'm going camping...

In a slightly stomping off manner - because quite frankly my dears i think its outrageous that its women and girls who have had their safety activities and fulfilment impinged in this way for centuries, through no fault of their own...

Maybe thats another thing thats kept me relatively safe from 'stranger' harm over the years - apart from the tallish muscular frame that looks like its spent its whole life doing physical work out doors.

Maybe it's also the glint in my eye that says "Oh yeah - just you try it mate..."

But its completely unfair that it should only be the ones prepared to 'tough it out' in some way who are going out.

And I'm bored of looking over my shoulder when hearing my own 'shadow footsteps' 

Twas misty, yet brightish the morn, and in the end i discovered that i'd had a protective phalanx of ladies, in attendance all night anyhow.

Mmmn , good cragginess - A very pleasing bit of geology - would be great fun to spend a day here exploring.

But time as ever nips at ones rubberised heels

Path finding here is easy enough - these uplands are pretty well trod - a good place to go a wandering if you were just starting out with building confidence in your navigation training. plenty of distinctive features to locate yourself by even in the mist - worth having a compass and knowing how to use it.

OK so it doesn't have quite the drama of Scotland or other more mountainous places - but i can see how anyone could grow fond of this place.

Up onto the crest , and along a bit before striking west towards Howden reservoir.

And dropping down among the trees.

Its as if they're all leaning in to hear a secret.

Marching on down through the beeches.

No i didn't eat - i was enjoying the technicolours of autumnal woods well enough, without hallucinogens.. 

Once down by the reservoir the path tracks the lakeside closely for 4 km or so until arriving at the peaty ford at 'Slippery Stones' - 

Hurrrah!! for rubber booties  - although yes there is a bridge upstream - but how dull would that be, when you've got the chance to go a paddling ?

Upstream, newly planted trees in the valley bottom.

And then swinging west up through Cranberry Clough towards Cut Gate, a steepish stony path, down which a young gentleman was descending at some speed on a bicycle.

He was indeed a gentleman as he arrested his career half way down to let me pass.

Thank you :-)

Looking back down towards Mosley Bank, autumn abundant..

Now we're getting some high wide hills , and long views.

I used to ride (on hossback) through long windblown grass such as this , and have fantasies of galloping across the Steppe. 

Attaining Howden Edge - I turn southwards -

- Walking at this time of year means shorter days - but you do at least get those afternoons of long mellow slanty light if the weather plays nicely.

And catching sunrise doesn't mean desperately early starts.

The path hugs the edges for as long as you like, all the way to Hathersedge in fact - but i decide to drop off eastwards towards the reservoir, for a change of scene.

Thats the filly so fickle hiker in me - she'll often  goes wherever the wind (doesn't so much) blow her .. 

Past this pleasingly solid shelter - sling a tarp over the top in poor weather and you'd have a half decent billet for the night.

Down via Howden Clough and along the lakeside for a short while -

Then to camp i thought go higher, to keep away from the damper air, and this lane is also fairly well travelled by cyclists and walkers..

So now cutting back up left at Abbey Tip Plantation.

 Looking for a likely pitch in among the tussocks as the evening came upon me -

 Here the stone walls giving in to gravity - as they mostly will unless maintained - an expensive business nowadays .  

Looking back as the terrain flattens to better grazing ground. 

Having another moment of repose not so very far from 'Pike How' - or thats what i'm calling it cos its written in curly ;ancient monument' script on the map, and even with a head torch i can't quite make out if I've got it right .. 

How annoying..

Misty again the morn' for another descent - I'ts all about the ups and downs.

Just briefly touching the lakeside gain at Well Head for a couple of hundred yards, before sneaking back up Grindle Clough, Highshaw then ascending  Moscar Cross Farm, all proper, classic northern bleakness - lovely - if you're in one of those slightly melancholic ' i want to be alone' kind of moods..

On sunny summer days, In places such as this, I like to imagine that i would have what it takes to be an gritty upland farmer 

 But i know, in reality, after a few weeks of deep clag, and no other diversions I'd probs be hightailing it back to the sunnier lowlands - the warmer more productive soils, and even the occasional urban diversions.

Nothing like a bit of autumnal mistiness -  to reflect on the years past - and how things might evolve in the future.

The craftsmanship - rarely fails to impress ..

I'd been warned with no little hint of drama that there was "A storm approaching" - 

The tail end of a hurricane !!  No less.

And indeed it did appear to be so, as i continued my stomp southwards - the sky turned a very interesting shade of pink - and the air started to feel warm and clammy.

All it needed was for a quartet of horsemen to appear over the horizon..

Further reflections - that of the midday sun - in a peaty puddle .

Stanage is the classic 'Edge' - justly famed for its rock formations - beloved of local climbers for its grippy gritstone.

I understand some students elect to attend Sheffield Uni mainly (or exclusively?) because of this rocky draw. 

But lets not panic - just because the weather threatens, it doesn't mean we can't have a little fun.

I'd actually forgotten i was packing the kite - she'd revealed herself on the previous nights rummaging  - i'm clearly not one of those sort of backpackers who lays everything out carefully for a pre trip 'aerial shot' - So i might find all kinds of surprises in a side pocket..

Taking the foreshortened view - Hmmn - murkiness abounds ..

Oh, Okayyy  - i s'pose i'd better not stay out another night - just in case - The Moment (tarptent) is in truth really only a three season shelter - although she has withstood a fair buffeting, and gusty winds in the past.

I'd originally thought to camp up here somewhere, and then walk in the back way to Sheffield the following day, via what i'd been informed was quite a pleasant route

 But the meteorology 'experts' were urging me to be cautious ..

Oh OK, down this way then, the paths just here are well made to withstand the attentions of many feet, and rock hopping cyclists.

Mmmn, Bye bye blocky Stanage - other diversions call ...

Almost like entering a temple - Some compensations were in order for my early descent -

 They'd only just opened this new shop - and were liberal with coffee - and sofa space for the slightly damp hiker .

I think i bought a couple of new dry bags as potential gifts - its either that or socks..

Very droll.

And then, ah yes  Very full - love me a decent fish pie.

There was a sheltered campsite available - but also a nice pub doing B&B, and i can't pretend that I'm a penniless vagabond these days - its nice to enjoy a bit of comfort now and again.

Next morning a scenic bus ride to Sheffi - definitely worth a day or twos exploring.

But I only had a few hours before my train to London, to join in some hairy farmer union business...

I do quite like the idea, of one day, being the kind of person who swishes elegantly about the place in a cape...

In the meantime i'll go with all the glamour of vegan cafes , with rabbits painted on their walls 👸

Back to the 'stead - just in time to wave this one ^^ off on the next leg of her lifes journey-

She had been a vital part of the farm care team in my absence -  for that whole season in fact .

Thank you, very much as ever my lovelies...

The Root 

- The Route. using OS Explorer OL 1 - The peak District - Dark Peak Area. 1:25,000

A compass would be useful in case of low cloud - but there are many 'features available to aid the novice navigator

From Hope Station, to Whin hill - then due North to Alport 'Castles' for a short tented snooze (Sorry no actual turrets, or fair maidens in pointy hats residing there)

  North up through the crags then bearing west once upon the crest down towards Howden Reservoir, north along the reservoir side for a few km - before crossing over at 'Slippery stones' - or on the bridge if no wellies.

Next head west on the rocky path up towards 'Cut Gate' .

Here you could just continue south all along the 'Edges' towards Hathersage - but i chose (mainly for variety's sake) to descend down again via Howden Clough - going a few hundred metres lakeside before heading east again just by Ashley Tip Plantation towards Bamford House.

Finding another stop for eventide snooze on the flatter top there.

Final leg - continuing back down the track to the reservoir - again very briefly before finally leaving Ladybower again to ascend up  Grindle Clough.

On and up past Moscar House, and Moscar Cross farm.

Here the path crosses the A57 and turns into 'The Sheffield Country Walk' bridleway  - easy to follow and giving fine views from Stanage Edge.

I chose to make my way into Hathersage after here because of the storm forecast - but it would be very possible to make your way eastwards into Sheffield via a number of paths from here instead -

There is a rail line and bus (and tea shops :-) available in Hathersage, so this walk can be accessed by regular public transport .

I'm not a particularly fast walker - but neither am i a dawdler - once i get going.

The whole walk took one whole, and two half days.

i will mark the route on a map and post it here - once i've learnt how to do that 

Big Thanks to friendly Graham (wherever you may be now) for putting me onto this very pleasant introduction to The Peak Experience .👍