Kites, Cows, and other capers - Pyreneees Summer 2018

Making a start a little late in the day as per - 

-The usual preliminaries - rushed preparations  and panics

"Will we have enough chlorophyll ??"

Much parsley was slightly harmed through the process of dehydration .. 

Lady garden looking good - a nice new touch instigated  this year

Crazee English laydees planting brassicae into the Serengeti - 

Boy was it hot this summer??

These guys did remarkably well after a hard start - they're ginormous now - belying their maritime origins ..

Only half grown here - them's even bigger now ...

And something to look forward to upon return - a lovely bit of artwork by Kate - we're all over the faux naiive style round these parts - fabulous tractors my dear . 

And lo it did come to pass - matchy matchy back packs - I vowed I'd never do it - but one mustn't become hidebound -

Initial trials had suggested that OH's (Our Heroes) cast off was actually comfier, lighter, and had better pocket access than the trusty pack of yesteryears the Osprey.

So casting aspersions to the wind, with intentions to dye for diferentiation if deemed suitable, things and stuff were packed.

Afternoon train to London, convivial stay with almost rellies, and then mid morning train from st Pancras - a very civilised way to travel - especially with self supplied farmer lunch ... Nom nom nom - pleasantries for the peasantry

St Pancras to Paris just here ... Then change via Montparnasse for Pau - really in truth - once you're bored of climbing aboard the top deck of a train to go south to the mountains then you'd be better off staying home and letting someone else go in your stead..

In Continental Abroadland you can stay in a perfectly decent hotel for not too many euros, and still have some small change left, for breakfast ..

Mmmmmmn, "Pain Perdu" - but unforgettable in truth.

Yesterdays already eggy brioche, soaked in more egg than it will in fact absorb, fried in butter and then - dusted with sugar.

I felt much pain for all the vegans, gluten free, dairy eschewing, sugar and carb refuseniks all at once..

No really i did .. 

We'd better do some trip planning now i guess ...?

 From the 180* viewing balcon in Pau - look at all those pointy parts - lets head for them, shall we??

A train to the end of the line - Bedous what a place to arrive, and to start from...

Then a bus to Etsau,


quick courtesy patronage of local bar -  then off we canter

Don't look down to the right if you suffer vertigo - this path is cut into an impressively sheer cliff  - The Chemin de Mature

Its hot - OH already has a few miles in his legs from completing "The Two Moors Way" a week or so before .

Unfortunately going round in circles on an overheated veg farm hasn't had quite the same fittening effect for me - but it's all fairly easy going as we proceed up the GR 10

Alpine meadows thus achieved  - I receive my instructions as to where best to erect the shelter -

 " Just there - and be quick about it woman"

Will this do?? Trusty Stratospire pretty much erects itself these days. There were many assorted livestock hereabouts too .

Quite handy I guess if one were to use dung fires for cooking 

This particularly fine n handsome fellow stood guard outside the tent all night -

 To be fair we had pitched on one of the few flat patches of ground in this Valley -  so his passive aggressive stance of

 grazing just slightly too close to the guy lines whilst clanking his enormous bell all night long was fully justified.

Ahh the peace and clanquility of the mountains

"Ask not for whom the bell tolls"

 - It tolls for you, you  b*st*rds who are kipping on my dinner actually ... 

Suffice to say - early rising, and daily km targets aren't such a massive feature of our walking holibobs generally ..

But onwards and southwards on the GR 10

Eye catching gaiters deployed already - the only downside of these things is you can never claim a stone in your shoe as an excuse for stopping ..

  At Col de Lourquette the distinctive profile of pic du Midi is espied to draw us further.



but a descent first, this bein all part of the inevitable ups and downs of Pyreneen trips.

If it was easy going the place would be rammed..

Lacs de Ayou

Appearing quite possibly in the incorrect order -  no responsibilty whatsoever will be taken for any followers getting lost...

 This is a scenic tour alright?? Not a guide book.

It was on the way down here that i assisted with the three point turn of a pack carrying donkey 

And yet more livestock.


Pigs x 2 - Porcine encounters of a woodland nature - quite cute - if a tad "home from home"

Towards Gave de Bious

Right a bit ...Then a sharp left turn up the HRP 

Lac de Peyregret - of course we could have made it up and over the pass that afternoon - but what's the big ol hurry?

Nice and flat for a bit of yoga practice too...

Evening glow ...

A short perambulate around the lake ...

Because this is the shot you need  

Next morning

Aha now it starts to get fun - hoppity skippity scampering over the rocks..

Its almost as soothing as sitting doing a jigsaw puzzle - so absorbed in finding the next piece , are you, that all other thoughts and cares melt away... if it weren't for the gaiters you could easily lose him among the boulders 

Looking a tad pinkish after a quick up and back skirmish,

At col de Peyreget


Not expecting a call from the catalogue modelling agency any time soon, but hey maybe there is a market for the 'Sturdy Farm Girl look'

Descending now past Lac de Pombie

       Refuge de Pombie - looking very smart - they do make an effort... its almost suburban in style..

Slight midday glare



It looks very hot, in fact it was very hot - I like it hot - as some do ...

But a little shade also on the midday ascents is welcome.

Nearly drank the stream dry (Camelling up - ha!!) before a longish climb back up Quebec de Arrious.

A thirsty butterfly takes advantage of the dampness - or is it sweetness of my shirt.

 When i was about nine i visited this area with my family - I distinctly remember being alighted upon by tens of butterflies as we walked up a hot dusty track .. Sadly not nearly so many now - as an anecdote maybe its not significant - but invertebrate numbers are falling world wide - and we seem disinclined to do anything about it . 

Taking advantage of the local geology - A shortish afternoon snooze in the shade of this monster boulder deposited long time back by a passing glacier - contemplating the forces involved ...

Then within an hour or two, further up the valley ?? Oh another lie down is it??

Yeah - But look at that view, and it was particularly hot - pre thunderous - afternoon   ... The scabby knee?? I brought with me , a breeze block incident just before leaving the farm - inappropriate usage as a trailer prop .. Oooops - this is why we have to come to the mountains to get me away from the dangers of the farm...

She can at last be persuaded to shift.. The path here comprises easy going switch backs, to ascend the steeper parts -
very civilised

We achieve Col de Arrious, and decide for a high camp, thunderstorms were forecast, but that can add to the fun - sometimes

So turn sharp right at the col towards Lac de Arrious

There is allegedly a pitching spot somewhere near this lake ..... looks a tad steep and rocky though.

But plenty room really, just up above on a hillock, with pleasant lake vistas.. .

And a teensy dot of north facing snowfield that has escaped the summer heat.

Expert bit of walling there from OH - one of his many rural skills ...

Manfully resisting a bit of pointing to complete the picture - a proud moment.

The prospect of a thunder and lightening storm is somewhat thrilling at five in the afternoon, it started with gusto just after dark, at eightish, and crashed on round the peaks for the rest of the night..

Hard not to feel slightly foolish camping here - no who am i kidding ??

A teensy bit nervous even, at this height -

 Being very much in amongst the electrical shenanigans, in a small shelter held up by two metal poles-

 I find one is very often slightly less brave at four in the morning.

All packed up - and ready to go - Survived to tell the tale - but not a lot of sleep - even with earplugs - the storm was very loud - and very bright...

A smattering of an inversion - the reward for staying this high.

Tranquility restored after the tempestuous night - hydration assured....

Finding good water up here isn't usually a problem - we very seldom filter or sterilise it - I don't know for sure if this is the case - but maybe both having land based occupations and thereby ingesting a fair amount of good organic dirt on a regular basis leaves us well protected against stomach problems .  

We didn't go this way ...

Was it because we were tired, or just generally lacking in moral fibre ?

 Whatever it was, or wasn't - this was our first episode of 'bottling it' - we could have taken a 'shortcut' that traverses the base of that upthrust (with chains, to cling onto) with a sheer drop beneath it.

Of course once you've fallen a certain distance, then terminal (very terminal) velocity is reached -  there aren't varying degrees of dead - you either are - or you're not - but a few extra hundred feet gives one pause for thought .. and opportunity to spread ...

Anyhow - once some properly rugged sorts had passed out of sight -going in the opposite direction - we decided to discreetly take the long way round - and down and up ...

 But hey - if we'd gone the gnarly way we'd have missed these .. Eridgeron.

And this ..

For the kit aficionados - please note the natty little handle - on the recycled water bottle - actually quite useful when filling and retrieving from side pocket. 

Later on we encountered a sign near The refuge of Arremoulit displaying the delights we had missed on the alternative route - sure it would have been fine - but didn't at the time regret the decision - perhaps next time ?? Ahh - The joys of having nothing to prove ..

and possessing roughly equal degrees of mettle when it comes to coping with heights - this is nice - no one has to feel really held back - nor unnecessarily pushed on by the others' capabilities or lack of.

It will vary from day to day as to who is feeling more courageous - so we can do encouragement without the need for any false bravado ..

A quick pit stop, for coffee making outside the refuge Arremoulit.

Then more fun times rock-hopping - and another vestigial scrap of snow

And hopping over the col du Palas - there reassured cheerily by three veterans coming the other way that the path 'wasn't too difficult'..

And thence to pass over the border briefly into Spain for all of a 500 m long? traverse.

Hmm, in hindsight all these things are fine, but at the time the slight uncertainty of "Is this actually the way?"

 Will spoil the fun a touch - "Stay on the brown rocks - look out for the paint marks"

When there isn't even a dashed line on the map - - - - you know that you're in for an 'interesting ' time..

And maybe just as well for me, at least that we hadn't read a detailed account of the conditions.
There was some vague mention of 'difficulty'

Well yes please define 'difficult' - on occasion putting up an umbrella can be 'difficult' - or negotiating world trade deals i imagine they're awkward too - Parameters are useful.

Approaching  Port de Lavedin 2615


But first there is a small matter of a rockshute, with a boulder the size of a family hatchback lodged therein.

Just up there in that notch somewhere ..

Come on then, what are we waiting for ???



Somewhere there are photos of this section of the escapade - but i can't find them right now.

I find it tricky also to casually take photos when engaged upon unscheduled grade two scrambles.

For me the hardest part wasn't getting over the obstacle itself - lodged as it was in an arm and a halfs span of near vertical cleft - it was more the not knowing what lay beyond - up and over was ok - sort of - with a bit of guidance and encouragement from OH - because I could see in advance - and try to memorise where hands and feet were supposed to go.

But if what lay beyond defeated me - i absolutely wasn't going to enjoy the reverse procedure - down climbing into an airy abyss feeling for the foothold - maybe i should practice this stuff in slightly less perilous circumstances??

Thankfully that was the worst of it - besides a nifty catch of my proper camera by OH - mid pack-haul - before it bounced of down the scree to its doom ..

 I hadn't been smart, or focussed enough to detach it from its usual velcroed on to shoulder strap position - and it made a sudden bid for freedom - and certain death - as my pack was passed upwards.

Thankfully the rock was dry and fairly grippy - although i don't suppose we would have attempted it in poor weather.

hmmn descent into Mordor .. ??

A brief stoppage at the top of the port - to catch breath,  regain resolve, and to survey the scene ...
Since we'd left, then regained France, not an hour and a half previously, she'd gone all grey and sulky.

Clearly amends needed to be made ..

adding to cairns seems like a kind thing to do here - in some parts of the world they are frowned upon,
but if making your way down through piles of rocks like this,
they give some reassurance, that mortal human has passed this way before.

But onward, and down was the only option now - this particular skippity bunny wasn't retracing her steps, or foot holds.

Slightly less abysmal down climbing next - we had heard that the scenery over this side was particular good.

Hmmn maybe ...

You never know It might brighten up ...

The forecast was cloudy for the rest of the day, but clear for the next.

 Given the effort expended to get her,e we decided to find a pitch in the hope that the morning would bring us a view ..

 So there was rather a lot of wandering about in the hope of finding a scrap of turf amongst the rocks - not an easy task when visibility is down to twenty yards - but Lac de Batcrabere, is somewhere nearby.

An eerie quest, when you really have no deep conviction that what you are searching for amongst the rocks even exists.

Apologies to the beetles... We know you shouldn't move stones in wild places ... But .

Quite a tight squeeze..

There is an art to inflating a sleeping mat with a snozzle bag -  entente -  i didn't want to risk damaging my main source of comfort on the spikey rocks outside ..

Yoga is such a practical form of bodywork..

Morning all ..

Oh OK maybe they did have a point about the view -

This is the kind of shot you show to folks who are utterly mystified as to why anyone would freely choose this kind of 'holiday' -

- Not necessarily to convince them to do it - some people just won't get it - but it certainly reminds oneself ...


Plus a cup of tea - and a breakfast biscuit - what more could any sensible human want ??

We had come down off of that the afternoon before, in the mist ..

if i had the capacity to draw a squiggle on a photo i might indicate the route..

Easy squeezy pitch .

As you can see there's alot of geology right here -  but its not such good croquet country ..

Packed up and shifted before nine this time - speed packing by our standards

Another perfectly manageable cleft on the way to Refuge de Larribet - This is a particularly scenic section of the HRP - its all stunning in its way - but sometimes - even for such a resolute agnostic as myself, its hard not to believe sometimes that the placement of rocks, water , landform and tree hasn't been done 'just so' by an ambitious landscape gardener..

There was a rather sad broken legged sheep just here - one of the few moments i've wished i had a gun - or at least a sharp enough knife to do the necessary...
life is harsh up here if you're not in fairly good fettle - This lady will have been recycled by the vultures by now - but not a nice way to go ..

A little further on a Space Age refuge - somehow it fits in the landscape - an astonishing situation for a building project.

This kind of construction would attract a good deal of harrumphing in an equivalent Uk situation.. maybe thats fair enough.

But we're kidding ourselves if we believe we really posses truly wild landscape even in the far north of scotland.

A bowl of coffee and a slice of gateaux de framboise - compensations of civilisation.


And a quick scan of the map to plan subsequent manoeuvres - there was a plan of sorts - but always subject to adjustment on a whim of weather - fair or foul...

Then skippity skip on down the Valley towards - it could get rather tiresome endlessly mentioning how scenic it all is - the photos give some idea - but being there is of course the immersive thing

This way or that way - timings should be taken as a very relative and rough guide - it really depends on things and stuff and snack bars...

On down the hrp towards Doumblas - a busy intersection, by our standards-  whereupon reaching the lowest point . we turn a smartish right  skirting the base of Berdoulet, still on the HRP

Ok so maybe there isn't as much insect life as we would like to see, but crickets still abound, and bound.

My poor white feet don't really stand a chance - farmer, and hiker tan combine to make my legs look better suited to a white socked chestnut pony - of the skittish sort ... Adho Muka Svanasana kinda stretches everything out  ... Although my fellow yogis will correctly observe that i am perhaps overworking my lumbar - plus ca change..

This was a brunch stop too

Then further up the trail - The almost inevitable by chance.. how dee do dee, encore un fois encounter.

We had met this couple the previous year at a campsite further east, in the same range...They were headed in the other direction, this time, towards where we had just come from, with rather dubious mapping facilities. 

The doubtless gallant, yet somewhat headstrong male of the party was dissuaded from taking a 'shortcut' that wasn't on any of our maps - not even dotted lines - could have resulted in a breakdown of marital relations - it had looked very scrambly from the other side... 

Adieus said, and Good Deed (one hopes) done in sensible redirection, then were off upwards toward Collado de la Pelra de san Martin

Leaving the cloud behind as we head roughly south - this ascent is long but the paths are easy - leaving ones eyes chance to feast upon the view.


 One day i shall get a clever app or some such that will inform me as to what sort of geology i am walking through - I'm guessing that knowing the names of things will add to my enjoyment in some way .. there's a uk version available https://www.bgs.ac.uk/igeology/  Maybe before long someone will make one for here..

Last glimpse back down the valley before we strike on towards Respomuso

Back to the plain of the jangling cows

Look at those saw tooth edges 

I've seen worse prospects for a camping spot - just at the far end of the second lake as it happens

Oh yes indeed

You do get tired, as in physically, bodily tired, doing this stuff .. And of course there are occasional moments of grumpiness induced by hunger, or plain old human moodiness - But really - how could you get tired of this?/

Go on tarp tent - give us a free  shelter - just how many scenic spots - and taut pitches do you need to be persuaded??

Night night !!

Morning!! 

I won - 0nce - and  0nce is enough to prove that it can be done..

Above - an 'istoric - likely never to be repeated moment - I was packed upright and ready to go first !!
solar panel even installed upon my pack (for the electricals not me)


My Man Friday who sometimes accompanies our hero on overnight trips, has a plausible theory about all this ..


OH does stealth packing - all casual and surreptitious like - you know  - "Tum de dum - no rush at all - slow and systematic"

But then, there will be an almighty flurry of activity, followed by a vigorous  jumping up whilst saying in slightly accusatory tone ... "Oh come on - aren't you ready yet ??"


i think there may be something in this theory ...

And as a postscript i discover that another backpacking friend of the male persuasion does same subterfuge - lorks you guys can make a competition out of pretty much anything ;-)

So I let him go first now as a salve to that rather easily bruised and delicate creature - the male ego ... 

Lovely , lovely scabious - one of my favourite flowers - not a pretty name but a glorious pincushion of purpleyness.. 

And just by the refuge a young couple a honey mooning - ah sweet ... I believe one was French the other German ..

We had to do the usual profuse apologies over 'our'  Brexit Bretheren - Yes we know - tragic - for us - but they'd probably be glad to see the back of us - etc etc ... They were tres sympathetique in return .

We'd come this way before , but in the opposite direction, maybe three years previously - it seemed hotter this time..

Down and down the rocky path for hours - trying to look upbeat and encouraging to the day walkers coming up from the carpark dam below - how far to the top  ??

Well that depends - a vague time is given based on not very much - but worth it for the views.. Hopefully the refuge does good business from these weary travellers

Yes well that thin piece of horse wire is definitely going to act as a secure handrail..


From another trip .... http://broadviewfromasmallfarm.blogspot.com/2015/10/a-pyrenean-perigrination-part-three.html

More late summer floriferouness of great beauty, to enjoy...

Tinged sometimes with sadness - if i think too hard about it..

Climate change is already forcing some mountain adapted species uphill to escape the unnatural warmth.. But before long they will have no where higher to go, eco systems, and species numbers are already collapsing.

I try to do my bit in terms of modelling alternatives to food production, and farming practices, not flying, using much less and greener energy, and campaigning about it where i can ..
Yes yes - enough of the virtue signalling.

But sometimes it all feels a bit hopeless.

And folks (even the ones who you think might care about this stuff) often will roll their eyes, and look the other way -

Either '"Its not my problem" or

 " The problem is too big, and its too late to do anything about it" or

" Its all a filthy conspiracy by those selfish  climate scientists to further their evil ends..."

Insert variation thereof.

But i'm not giving up hope, or activism just yet, however eleventh hour it might all seem -

Because that would be a despairing way to live -

The gorge narrows here towards its base ... The accompanying river flows companionably alongside.

But you see what corporal delights lie at the bottom ??  Beer and mobile signal - the essentials of modern life ..

The hydroelectric house is a rather handsome building

Then after a refreshing break, and a quick guest house booking... Yes a shower would be very nice

Its off to undertake productive garden inspections, since we were here last - beans are looking well - and have a clean up - and shake down in  an uberluxe  bed for the night ... Well hello ...Salent de Gallego...

Where we had stopped for coffee and provisions some years before...

... http://broadviewfromasmallfarm.blogspot.com/2015/10/pyrenean-perigrination-part-two.html


A little overnight rest now before heading off again - there's really no need to make a trial of these things...

Also apologies i lured you in with promises of kites and cows and i'm not totally sure there have been any, as yet ...

 not long now ...

Alright so its actually a Hefffalump - my first and favourite soft toy - brought back as a gift from Turkey i believe..
Now safely residing in the drawer of my Pas old writing desk.. Ears worn off with love many years ago...

But i do remember we had to cross back into Switzerland from France, through the then manned, and checkpointed border because i'd inadvertently left this little chap at passport control -  ooops.

The distraught protestations of an Ellie bereft five year old would have completely ruined the rest of the families Alpine holiday --  Clearly, always was a one for drama ...

Fear not ...More picturesque cows will be along soon.. Here they are in fact -

 https://broadviewfromasmallfarm.blogspot.com/2020/05/pyrenees-2018-kites-cows-and-mild-to.html